Winter Warmth
Tuesday, 16 June 2026
Pizza perfection: how to make every slice a winner
Featuring:
Johnny Di Francesco, 400 Gradi
Not many foods have the universal appeal of a great pizza. From busy city pizzerias to regional and suburban bistros, it consistently ranks among the top-selling menu items in the country. We asked one of Australia’s best pizzaiolos, Johnny Di Francesco, what goes into an award-winning pizza, and how chefs can create pizzas that keep customers coming back for more.
“When you eat a pizza, you should be able to taste every component. You should be able to taste the dough, the mozzarella, and the base sauce — and every single element should give a flavour burst in your mouth.”
— JOHNNY DI FRANCESCO, 400 GRADI
On toppings, Johnny is a minimalist. “I always say use only three to four ingredients,” he says. The aim is balance, so that every flavour comes through rather than getting lost in an overloaded pizza.
Showing the Italians how it’s done
From humble beginnings as a 12-year-old working in a pizza shop, Johnny honed his craft to the strict guidelines of Italy’s Neapolitan Pizza Association. The style features a thin, soft and chewy crust with a puffy edge (cornicione), cooked in a wood-fired oven. He was the first Australian to be certified by the association, and opened 400 Gradi pizzeria in Brunswick in 2008.
By 2014 he was crowned the world’s best pizza maker at the World Pizza Championships in Parma, Italy. Since then, 400 Gradi has grown to seven restaurants across Melbourne, regional Victoria and Adelaide, plus an outpost at Marvel Stadium and one in Dallas, Texas.
Named after the 400 degrees Fahrenheit needed to cook a pizza in 90 seconds, 400 Gradi has been named ‘Best Pizzeria in Oceania’ three years in a row, and recently placed eighth in the prestigious 50 Top World Artisan Pizza Chains list. This year Johnny competed again in Parma at the World Pizza Championships, claiming fifth place in a field of pizza masters.
In May he stepped into the role of Head Judge at the Australian Pizza Championships, held at the Pizza, Pasta and Italian Food Show as part of Food & Hospitality Week at ICC Sydney. There he assessed some of the country’s most skilled pizzaioli across three categories — classic, creative and Neapolitan pizza.
Aussie champions
After an intense two-day contest, Sasa Smiljanic from Il Barbuto Pizza in Sydney won Best Classic Pizza, and Giammichele Laccetti from Freghete Authentic Italian on the Gold Coast won Best Creative Pizza and the overall Pizza Chef of the Year title. But it was Mark Paterno from Sydney’s Arte Bianca who won Best STG (Specialità Tradizionale Garantita) Neapolitan Pizza, and the honour of representing Australia at the next World Pizza Championships.
Johnny explains that the STG category is the hardest to win, as it follows strict pizza protocols. “People say it’s the easiest pizza to make, but when you look at all the rules that need to be followed for every step of the process, it actually becomes the hardest.”
People say it’s the easiest pizza to make, but when you look at all the rules that need to be followed for every step of the process, it actually becomes the hardest.
Building the best pizza
The foundation of any great pizza starts with a well-made dough. “You can tell when you take a bite whether the dough has been developed correctly or not,” Johnny says.
For the toppings he looks for a balance between the sauce and the ingredients on top, rather than an overloaded pizza that muddles the flavours.
Cheese-wise, at 400 Gradi Johnny uses fior di latte, although he says mozzarella is another great option. He’s experimented with many different cheeses, and even claimed a Guinness World Record in 2018 for using 154 different cheeses on a single pizza.
His Inferno pizza at 400 Gradi pairs gorgonzola with salami and chilli, a surprising combination that has proved a hit. “The gorgonzola and the salami just go so well together — it’s a flavour explosion in your mouth.”
Mastering the fire
Johnny says that when making pizza, cooking precision is as critical as ingredient quality. “We tend to forget that one of the main aspects of a good quality pizza is the cooking,” he says.
“With wood-fired ovens, you have an inconsistency from the time you open the doors to the time you close them.” He advises pizza chefs to fully understand all the features of whatever oven they are using. If using a wood-fired oven, it’s best to designate and train a dedicated ‘oven master’.
“No matter what oven you’re using, you need to know every part of that oven, how it reacts when you’re busy and how it reacts when you’re quiet.”
No matter what oven you’re using, you need to know every part of that oven, how it reacts when you’re busy and how it reacts when you’re quiet.
Count your steps
One of the common mistakes Johnny sees in the pizzeria business is over-capitalising on fit-out. He also advises operators pay close attention to the layout of the kitchen and dining spaces, and minimise the steps needed between tasks.
“Steps cost a lot of money! The more steps you’re doing, the more it costs you to run, because then you need more people.”
“People think that a pizzeria makes a fortune, but to be honest with you, the margins are getting slimmer and slimmer every year. So we need to be a little bit more creative about how we make our pizzas, and understand all the factors that lead to success.”
What’s hot right now
The Australian pizza landscape is evolving quickly, and Johnny says New York-style pizza is proving popular right now. “At the moment, I see a lot of people opening New York-style pizzerias — that’s becoming extremely trendy. Pizza by the slice, in different styles as well, whether it’s Chicago, New York, or even Neapolitan.”
The other style gaining serious momentum is Roman pinsa, which Johnny began serving at his own restaurants five years ago. “Pinsa has its own style. It’s a pizza that’s between a focaccia and a thicker New York style — it’s got that crunch, but it’s also got the softness of a focaccia.”
Pinsa has a distinctive oval shape, and a flour combination that creates a lighter, longer-fermented dough. Johnny adds that it derives from Rome’s pizza al taglio tradition, where large rectangular pizzas are sold by weight and reheated to order.
Looking ahead, Johnny says Neapolitan street-style pizza might take off here as it has in other parts of the world. “This one is like a pocket, it’s a folded pizza,” he explains. “It’s a smaller Margherita folded in half and wrapped in paper, eaten as a snack or a quick lunchtime dish.”
Pinsa has its own style. It’s a pizza that’s between a focaccia and a thicker New York style — it’s got that crunch, but it’s also got the softness of a focaccia.
Final slice
Johnny’s lifelong mission to create the perfect pizza has taken him around the world, and he sees a great future for his craft, with consumer demand growing for premium pizzas using quality ingredients.
“The most important thing is to have fun. Because when you’re having fun doing something that you love, you’ll do it extremely easily and extremely well.”
“Making pizza is a sport, an artform and a science. It’s physical, it’s a process and it’s alchemy.”
Dairy Farmers Mozzarella is made for great stretch and a truly melt-in-the-mouth texture. Made in Australia in a traditional Italian style, this semi-hard, brine-salted cheese has a flexible texture and mild flavour, shredded for your convenience.
For a slice of Manhattan, top a crispy New York-style pizza base with creamy vodka and tomato sauce, then shredded mozzarella, crispy pancetta and dollops of fresh ricotta.
Make a light pinsa flatbread base and top with Buffalo chicken, shredded mozzarella, rocket and blue cheese crumble.
Try a Neapolitan winter special of pizza dough spread with white sauce and topped with mozzarella, lightly sautéed mushrooms and truffle oil — or use fresh truffle shavings for something more up-market.
Shredded Mozzarella
6 x 2kg
Don KRC has a wide range of convenient shaved, shredded and sliced meats, ready to add to any pizza on your menu. Whether it’s a classic pepperoni or capricciosa, or one of the more creative ideas below, you’ll find the perfect pizza product.
Try a deep-dish Chicago-style pizza with salami and shredded mozzarella, drizzled with hot honey and a garnish of fresh chilli for a taste that’s so hot right now.
Pinsa flatbread with shredded mozzarella, roasted pumpkin, crispy sage and pine nuts — after cooking, top with rocket and ribbons of fresh prosciutto.
For a Hawaiian with a twist, try shaved or shredded ham with mozzarella, pineapple salsa, jalapeño and coriander.
Mild Thin Sliced Salami
4 x 1kg
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